Moving a softener is mostly a job of connections. The tank is heavy and awkward, but most of the time you spend, and most of the trouble you can cause, comes from the water lines, the drain, and the brine side. Work through the steps in order and you will avoid the common problems: a cracked fitting, a unit that drains onto a new floor, or a system that starts regenerating before you have checked for leaks.
Before the Truck or Helper Arrives
Start with the paperwork. If the softener is leased, financed, or still under a warranty tied to the original installation, it may not be yours to move. Check the ownership papers and the warranty terms before you take anything apart. Then gather what you need: the owner's manual, the model and serial information from the control head, the salt you have on hand, and any fittings or adapters that came with the unit. Find out whether your new home already has a bypass valve and shutoff valves at the right spots, because a missing shutoff makes the disconnect much harder.
Shut Down and Disconnect in Order
Begin with the water. Shut off the supply to the softener, then open a nearby faucet to relieve the pressure in the lines. Follow the manual for putting the unit into bypass and for draining the resin tank, since the steps differ by valve type. Disconnect the drain line and the brine line first, then remove the salt and empty the brine tank as completely as you can. Last, disconnect the inlet and outlet fittings. Label each line as you go, using tape and a marker, so the reconnection at the new house does not depend on memory.
Transport Without Damage
Keep the tank upright unless the manual allows otherwise, and secure the control head so it cannot strike a doorframe or a wall. Make sure the tank is fully drained before it moves, because trapped water adds weight and can leak when it is tipped. Plan for at least two people for the lift, or use a hand truck with straps. Store the salt bags dry and separate from the tank, and do not let anything rest on the control valve or the fittings.
Set It Up at the New House
Check the new location before you place the tank. The floor should be level and able to carry the full weight of the tank with salt and water. Confirm where the drain will go, what height it sits at, and whether the outlet is reachable without a long, unsupported run. Make sure the water supply has a working shutoff, and that a power outlet is available where the control head will sit. Reconnect the lines in the reverse of the order you took them apart, using the labels you made. Keep the unit in bypass until you have checked every joint for leaks, then return it to service and set the time, capacity, and hardness according to the manual or the service person doing the work. Confirm the result with a water test before you consider the job finished.
When to Bring in a Professional
Hire a professional if the valve type or plumbing at the new house differs from the original, if new fittings or pipe work are needed, or if your warranty requires that a licensed installer handle any reconnection. A short service call costs far less than repairing water damage. The Missouri Water Softener Buyer's Guide covers how to think through these installation questions from start to finish.